Cooking shows are to me what soap operas were for my grandmother. I watch a variety of programs, from the Food Network to PBS and the BBC. The popularity of entertaining cooking shows seems to be in full swing with new shows emerging all the time. So, it’s not terribly surprising that when a food personality gains popularity, the marketing machine behind them seeks to profit as much as possible.
But, is there a point where it becomes too much?
My earliest memories are of Julia Child giving simple advice on french cookery. It was a magical world back then, there wasn’t an internet and VCRs had not yet been released. Julia worked within the conventional media of the time, publishing books and producing informative television shows.
Today, there are a plethora of cookbooks and magazines spawned from each of our beloved food celebs, but I am stunned by what else they now sell in their arsenal of goods. Admittedly, I am guilty of buying a set of Nigella serving platters many years ago when it all seemed unique and exciting. Fortunately, I found them at a clearance store and didn’t pay full price.
I am uncertain who to point my finger at for this trend but it’s likely the successful rise of the Martha Stewart empire. And like Martha, the world of food celeb merchandise seems to be growing exponentially as well …
- Alton Brown has a line of knives
- Bobby Flay has Mesa marinades and seasonings
- Emeril Laggase sells a line of seasonings and cookware
- Giada De Laurentiis recently launched a line of seasonings
- Ina Garten sells bake mixes and gourmet foods
- Mario Batali created a line of cookware and utensils
- Michael Chiarello created a chain of stores called NapaStyle
- Nigella Lawson sells dishes and bakeware
- Pat & Gina Neelys are newcomers but have a line of sauces and seasonings
- Paula Deen has bake mixes and seasonings
- Tyler Florence has a large line of dishes for Mikasa
… and Rachael Ray may just have the most diverse line of goods, from utensils and bakeware to EVOO and dog food. Yes, dog food.
[insert your own joke here]
While shopping at Wal-Mart recently, I was shocked to find a line of dog food now available from Rachael Ray. I had to snap this photograph to document that I wasn’t seeing things — you can click on the photo to view it in a larger size. Granted, she is a huge dog lover and makes this widely known. Still, it somehow seems completely absurd to me and proves that celebs can sell absolutely anything. But, should they?
Sometimes it feels like they are playing a trick on us, like selling a simple mix of seasonings for which the recipe is widely known and published. As ‘essence’ is to Emeril, ‘house seasoning’ is to Paula Deen. She uses it in nearly every episode and has given the recipe before — it’s a simple mix of salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Why then would house seasoning be sold for $7.49 for 4oz? Well, because it sells.
As food celebs gain notoriety and new celebs emerge, the trend in branded merchandise will surely continue. My prediction is that we’ll next see a liquor line from Sandra Lee or Paula Deen putting her name on tubs of butter. If marketing research shows they can make a dime off from it, you can bet it’s in development.
Maybe I am too harsh and bitter, but for me the merchandising distracts from the cooking and makes me question the authenticity of the food and character of the celeb. What do you think — are you buying their wares?
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{ 18 comments }
Allen, you can Jamie Oliver to the list…his own video game!
As for the dog food…hey, they had to do something with all that leftover food from her cooking shows!
Allen I understand what you’re getting at. It’s almost too funny to see dog food promoted by a celebrity chef! “celebrity chefs” along with any other “celebrities” are a product in their own right…Best thing to do is vote with your wallet!
Allen, I completely agree! Thank you for such an eloquent, thought-provoking post. It’s so true – I enjoy and am inspired by a multitude of cooking shows, and what I turn to food TV for, most of all, is novelty – new ideas, tips, and techniques to expand my culinary knowledge. Hence, I am continually disappointed to find celebrity chefs selling and marketing average to mediocre products (or, like you said with regard to Paula Deen’s seasoning, products that are just so normal and every day that putting a celebrity label on them can hardly be construed as anything other than a marketing ploy). To some extent I can’t blame them for the temptation, but then again, I would argue that if you’re attempting to stand for culinary excellence as a professional chef, you should at least ensure that your products seek quality rather than quantity as well. Emeril’s seasonings, for example, are what I tell my northern friends to purchase “in a pinch” if they can’t find any other cajun seasoning, but several small, family-owned seasoning companies in Louisiana make far superior seasoning blends with regard to overall freshness and flavor balance…
On a humorous note, I had not yet discovered “nutrish” dog food – your photo absolutely made me laugh hysterically! Thank you so much for the good round of giggles. :-)
And, thank you SO much for the tip about freezing beans! I will definitely be employing your advice immediately! :-)
I actually think that some of these belong to a natural progression. Garten, who is admittedly is not a chef, did own her deli long before everything. Nigella isn’t kidding us with highly technical kitchenware (’cept that mezzaluna, which I’ll overlook), but her dishes (… and bazonggas) do look nice on the show. I’m not familiar with the Neelys but I hear their barbecue restaurants are a big hit. Ditto Flay. The seasonings’ successes I’ll chalk up to public laziness. I like making my own, it’s economical.
Paula Deen putting her name on a tub of butter? …. Herself? BAD JOKE
I’m glad I didn’t see NUTRISH on the shelves when I visited. I would have barfed then and there. It sounds like a hair conditioner. I wonder by how much more the prices are inflated to be able to pay the endorser. I LIKE Jamie Oliver and I’ve never even considered buying his annoying Flavour Shakour.
I’m similar to you. I watched the Frugal Gourmet (Jeff Smith) on PBS. There were no lines of goods. Just books.
In all honesty, I don’t think these celebs would sell items if people didn’t scoop them up.
Can we blame the celebrities and their backers for accepting the cash that’s shoveled at them?
That said, I don’t buy their wares. There are better products for equal or less money out there.
But you know? It doesn’t only happen in the food industry. Over selling is everywhere. Our houses are full of stuff we really don’t need (and probably will never use) because that’s what keeps the economy going (everything is just a big [American] dream) And you are not bitter, I AM bitter. lol
Maybe when we become famous we can have our own cat food line? What about our own bottler water? That’d be original :-p
Celebrity overkill is unfortunately the nature of the PR game. They cram people and products down your throat until you can’t stomach them anymore. I wish people could take a more organic and comfortable approach to selling themselves and therefore becoming endearing to the public (a la the Julia Childs of old) but it just doesn’t appear to be possible in the current day’s culture. When the Rachael Ray bubble bursts there’s going to be a huge puddle of EVOO to clean up ;)
I must say, Jamie Oliver is the worst for this – although he doesn’t sell dog food but then we don’t have Rachel Ray over here! Jamie has a range of everything and, although he has also ‘done good’ for example with his school dinners campaign – he is also on an ad for Sainsburys every five minutes. Supporting supermarkets!
Peter M: Ahhh, so she’s recycling her leftovers :-)
Peter G: Very true – it’s all about voting with your wallet.
Astra Libris: Glad I could give you a giggle – what will that darn Rachael Ray think of next?
Manggy: Ummm, just to clarify — the Paula Deen butter would not actually be made from fat removed from Paula Deen :-) This reminds me of the joke in the Addam’s Family movie where the question is asked, “are these cookies made from real Girl Scouts?”
James: Ah yes – the Frugal Gourmet! I loved watching Jeff Smith. Like Peter noted above, it comes down to people voting with their wallets … someone out there is buying this stuff.
Ben: Hmm, if I had a signature product I’m not sure what it would be …
Erin: Once, a very long time ago, I watched Ms. Ray … but then she began to morph into something very fake. Her eyebrows became heavily plucked into narrow lines and her face became super shiny. She somehow became a mannequin (albeit a very loud mannequin). In the end, I guess it’s all a race, a sprint to make as much money while you’re in the public eye because you don’t know when it will all come crashing down.
Helen: I found it funny to learn he has a video game coming out. Oh my …
Wow … this is a subject very close to my heart. even reading your words just makes me ANGRY. i’ve been feeling the same way as you for a few years now. i’m so sick of it – this whole mass-marketing and making ‘celebs’ out of cooks (some crappy, some ok)- to me it just has cheapened the whole history and culture of cooking. i think martha stewart is partly to blame, but i really think the food network execs and rachael ray are more to blame.
i stick to my PBS programming – my jacques, lidia,julia repeats,etc. and leave all the branded crap for the food network fans to eat up!
I think “selling out” became an acceptable term when I started seeing Rachel Ray in Dunkin Donuts commercials. That is just wrong!
Great post!
I personally do not buy any of the “celebrity made” items, as I don’t believe they are any better in quality as things I buy for a more reasonable price. I buy quality, not the names.
I’ve bought cookbooks but none of the products. I think I can understand the temptation on their parts to sell merchandise as there is good money in it. What makes me upset is when the products they sell are subpar
Allen, I’m late for the debate, but I have to say how much I liked your post. Some of these “celebrities” I only know through the Internet, since the Food Network is not aired here.
I love Martha and I think that her products are beautiful and of quality (and, thanks to you, my friend, I got to own some of them, yay!). She is a not a chef or anything like that and she has always acted in different areas (crafts, etc).
As for the others, some I love but I would never buy any of their products. EVER.
Sorry, I don’t agree with you. Some of us who watch the cooking shows are not, and don’t really want to be, accomplished chefs. Some of us have kids, jobs, and crazy lives that make having products like this a step up from Domino’s pizza. Who cares what gets people into the kitchen cooking for their families, whether from scratch, or some help from a package product. Besides Ina Garten rocks and she can do no wrong.
I think the quality of Alton Brown’s knives are really good. (I believe that Shun is the actual maker/brand) Fortunately you can buy them at lesser cost and without his logo.
I do think it is silly to have such extreme items but i did want to tell you the racheal ray donates the proceeds of her dog food line to help animal charities. She also features animal friendly recipes so if you read her magazine she has done this a long time. I find her very extreamly anoying to watch but i must confess in the dark that i enjoy her magazine.
organic mom: haha! it’s ok to enjoy reading her magazine, I won’t tell anyone ;-) It’s good to hear that she does donate proceeds to charity!
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